Journey of Discovery: Exploring the Treasures of Northern Spain while Celebrating Another birthday
In Bilbao, we were fortunate to secure two complimentary nights in Santurtzi, a charming coastal village just outside Bilbao. As we continue our journey westward, our hope is to encounter more anchoring spots, offering both respite and the opportunity to save on our budget.
The cost of our voyage from Denmark to Spain has been undeniably high. We were well aware that our itinerary would necessitate extended stays in harbors, and the costs have correspondingly mounted. During our travels, particularly in the high season, the fees for harbor berths have proven to be quite substantial, averaging around 35-50 EUR per night. The most substantial dent in our finances occurred in Arcachon, where the overnight fee soared to an astonishing 79 EUR.
Fortunately, as we venture further along, we are now reveling in the fact that we've transitioned beyond the peak season, and we're eagerly anticipating a stretch of our journey that promises more affordable anchoring options.
Our stay in Santurtzi provided us with free accommodation, but regrettably, it was a restless and uncomfortable night for us all. This experience spurred us to set sail from Santurtzi with the determination to reach Santander, despite feeling the fatigue setting in. When we found ourselves off Laredo, roughly halfway to Santander, we collectively decided to seek refuge in a nearby harbor for a brief overnight stop.
This brief interlude allowed us to rejuvenate before our continued journey to Santander, a city we had not originally intended to visit. Big cities, to captivate our interest, must offer something genuinely unique, as we tend to find the hustle and bustle less conducive to relaxation. Therefore, it was an ideal choice for us to anchor in a tranquil and well-protected spot in Santander for the night.
This anchorage, positioned a mere 50 meters from the airport's runway, provided an unexpected thrill. Planes descending from the skies to land on the runway's waterside required us to communicate with the airport via VHF to gain clearance for safe passage. This experience turned out to be an amusing spectacle, as we could watch the next "arrival" to our marine neighborhood. With the cessation of air traffic at 9 PM, our nights remained undisturbed, and the overall experience became a source of fascination and enjoyment.
Santander served as another brief stopover on our journey. Early the following morning, we hoisted anchor and contacted the airport on VHF for permission to pass the runway. Our route led us serenely westward, steering clear of the airstrip, toward our next destination: Ribadesella. This quaint small town and harbor, well-shielded from the tumultuous waves of the Bay of Biscay, promised new adventures and discoveries.
On our way to Ribadesella, we couldn't resist trying our luck with our fishing lines once more, hoping for a fresh catch to grace our dinner table. Just over halfway through our angling endeavor, an extraordinary event transpired. Our fishing lines suddenly snapped off their small "clips," the triggers we had become accustomed to. The lines tautened, and excitement soared as Tristan and Norah exclaimed, "We've got a bite!"
Our initial catch, we believed, was a tuna, although it managed to elude us. Our fleeting disappointment was short-lived as both lines tightened once more. This time, we triumphantly hauled in a nearly 4kg tuna, followed seconds later by another weighing nearly 2kg. The decision was made to release the smaller one back into the sea, as our storage capacity was limited and we already had a substantial 5kg catch flopping about on the cockpit floor.
Our children's excitement was palpable as we embarked on the process of cleaning and preparing the freshly caught fish for dinner. It was a testament to the thrill of our maritime experiences and the culinary rewards of our journey.
Our next destination, Ribadesella, quickly charmed us with its well-protected harbor and the perpetual allure of crashing waves on the nearby beach, which attracted surfers to the town. Ribadesella's cultural heritage, including ancient caves and cave paintings dating back over 20,000 years, along with the Northern Camino route passing through the town, brought a diverse range of visitors and a unique atmosphere to this small coastal gem.
Ribadesella also marked a special occasion—the celebration of our fourth-to-last birthday of this incredible journey. Our daughter Norah turned 10, and we made every effort to ensure her birthday was memorable. However, a 10-year-old's birthday can evoke a myriad of emotions, including yearning for family and, especially, friends. This milestone served as a poignant reminder of the bonds that connect us across the miles, making our adventures all the more meaningful.