Our arrival in the Basque Country happened under the cover of darkness, and we had to anxiously wait to see what the surroundings would offer us until the sun would rise again from the French lowlands. And Spain does not disappoint. We are greeted by mountains rising from the sea, fog rolling gently down over the city from the valleys between the mountains, shrouding the area in a light mystique. The air has a freshness to it, reminiscent of early autumn mornings back home in Denmark but with a distinct scent of warmer climes.

Hondarribia

Hondarribia, or Fuenterrabia as it is called in Spanish, is a city with a history dating back to the first Roman settlers. In the Middle Ages, the city's fortress and location played a significant role in the conflict between the kingdoms of Navarre and Castile. A role the city couldn't entirely escape from over time, as Hondarribia found itself caught in various conflicts again and again.

Today, Hondarribia is a peaceful place that clearly preserves its history and welcomes numerous tourists every year, a role we also assume, but in a season where we can feel that we are increasingly becoming a rare guest and thus can easily see the city outside the tourist season.

We are quite happy about that. We get a more authentic insight into how the city is and functions. We see who talks to whom and how daily life goes on without the influence of the many visitors who annually come to the city.

Celebrating our smallest sailor in Leiketio

We sail on from Hondarribia toward Bilbao, hugging the coast, and see how the sea has shaped the coastline over millions of years, with small coves and bays being inhabited by the population to become small fishing villages. We meet the fishermen on their way out to sea, as they have done for thousands of years to catch their daily meal. In boats that seem too small for us to even leave the harbor with, they set lines and nets, haul in the day's catch, greet us politely, and look back at us as we sail by with the Danish flag fluttering at the stern. We sense that we are a rare sight on this coast, that it is clear that many long-distance sailors choose the route from Brest to A Coruña and thus bypass this part of the Bay of Biscay.

32 nautical miles from Hondarribia, we reach the small fishing town of Lekeitio. A passage between cliffs and rocks briefly makes us break into a sweat, and we encounter another small town where tourism has gone dormant, allowing the locals to breathe and use the city's spaces as their own. For a while, we enjoy the city's relaxing pace and take in impressions on walks, beach outings, fishing trips, and the celebration of Konrad's birthday.

Heavy winds gusting us the last miles to Bilbao

As we sail from Lekeitio and round 'Cabo de Machichaco' to begin the final part of the journey to Bilbao, we are met with strong winds. Winds of 45 knots (23 m/s) rush down from the mountains at Pelaio Deuna Auzoa and hit us amidships. We can see the winds churning the sea nearly half a nautical mile ahead, and we hoist all sails to the max. The winds greet us with a force we have not sailed in before, and the otherwise calm Bay of Biscay starts showing its teeth. Swells from the northwest meet winds from the southeast and toss the sea in all directions, causing the ship to heel 40-45 degrees to starboard. The children have huddled under the spray hood on cushions and under blankets, while Betina and I steer our little floating home toward Bilbao.

After nearly 2 hours of very shifting winds, we can finally secure the mooring lines to the dock with a sense of pride.

The journey through Spain has begun.